The history of Portuguese filigree
The oldest filigree pieces discovered on the Iberian Peninsula date back to 2000–2500 BC, and in Portugal, to between 1200 BC and 600 BC. These pieces may have belonged to traders or sailors from the Middle East.
During Roman rule in the 2nd century BC, mining began on the Iberian Peninsula, but it was not until thousands of years later, in the 8th century AD, that filigree was being developed and produced in Portugal.
With the arrival of the Arabs, new patterns emerged and the filigree of the Iberian Peninsula began to differ from that of other parts of the world.
References to goldsmithing in Portugal in the 11th and 12th centuries, and knowledge of the pieces produced, are very limited; however, it is known that filigree was closely linked to the sophisticated works of sacred art, given the intense medieval religious sentiment and the influence of Romanesque and Gothic architecture prevalent during that period.
Portuguese goldsmithing achieved significant technical and aesthetic advances in the 17th century, and it was then that Portuguese filigree established its own distinctive style, markedly different from any other form of filigree.
During the 18th century, filigree eventually became more accessible and popular, ceasing to be the exclusive preserve of the sophisticated objects that had characterised it until then, and gaining a life of its own from the 19th century onwards, particularly in the north of the country, especially in Porto, Gondomar and Póvoa de Lanhoso.
The exquisite pieces of jewellery created in Portuguese filigree are also the face of Portugal!
How filigree is made
Portuguese filigree is an openwork pattern made from fine threads of gold or silver.
The gold is melted down and formed into a bar, which is drawn through a machine to create a very fine strip – the wall or frame of the future piece of jewellery. This frame is then filled in, creating a pattern of fine gold or silver threads. By joining and intertwining, the wires create circular patterns, resulting in products of incredible beauty.
The elements are joined by heating. No other technology is used. The thickness of the wire used in filigree work must not exceed 0.22 mm.
Portuguese filigree is made by hand and requires great patience and experience. The process is labour-intensive, which limits the production of filigree.
Filigree Museum in Gondomar
Opened in 2022, the Filigree Museum pays homage to this timeless art, while preserving and valuing a common cultural heritage.
More than just an exhibition space, the Filigree Museum serves as a place where visitors can connect with the history, talent and craftsmanship of the communities that have made Gondomar the Capital of Goldsmithing since the 18th century. By paying tribute to the master filigree craftsmen and the women who set the stones, the museum helps to keep alive a unique craft deeply rooted in the history and identity of the municipality.
Alongside its cultural and educational role, the Museum has also played a significant part in boosting the local economy by promoting and selling certified filigree pieces produced in the municipality’s traditional workshops, thereby contributing to the sustainability and appreciation of this craft.
As the welcome centre for the Filigree Route, the Museum also serves as a starting point for participating in traditional workshops, offering visitors an up-close experience of the craft process and direct contact with the artisans.